They say the best places on Earth are the ones that are just a little difficult to reach. As we bounced along a rough gravel road somewhere south of Tanga in northern Tanzania, we were definitely questioning that theory—and perhaps our sanity—for setting out in pursuit of a little-known stretch of African coastline.
Nine hours earlier, we had left the northern suburbs of Dar es Salaam, our hearts as full of excitement as our Toyota Alphard was full of people and luggage. Google Maps confidently assured us we had a seven-hour journey ahead, while our trusty Tanzanian driver simply smiled and declared, “No, no… five hours at best!” Either way, we had snacks, entertainment, and were ready for a road trip. What could possibly go wrong?
Anyone who has driven through Tanzania will be familiar with the countless roadside villages and the equally frequent 50 km/h speed zones. Naturally, these are accompanied by police speed traps. But Tanzania has elevated speed enforcement to an art form. Forget obvious speed cameras or officers with handheld radar guns. Here, policemen in casual clothes hide high in mango trees, armed with walkie-talkies, relaying your speed to colleagues waiting several kilometres down the road. Before you know it, you’re politely pulled over in the middle of nowhere and informed that the officer perched in the tree three kilometres back clocked you speeding. Ingenious… if slightly frustrating!
Of course, the moment you arrive somewhere truly spectacular, the journey is instantly forgotten.
Just south of the Pangani River lies Ushongo Beach, nestled along Tanzania’s tropical mainland coast. Surrounded by fruit trees and pineapple plantations, arriving at our beach villa after the long drive—and a ferry crossing over the Pangani River—felt like discovering paradise. White sand stretched endlessly in both directions, gentle waves rolled onto the shore, palm trees swayed in the breeze, and the warm Indian Ocean sparkled in the sunshine. Best of all, there was hardly another person in sight.
Unlike the bustling beaches of Zanzibar, where you’re regularly approached by vendors selling everything from beaded bracelets to dolphin tours, Ushongo offers something increasingly rare: peace. With so few tourists, there’s no constant sales pitch—just uninterrupted stretches of pristine coastline where you can truly relax.
Every morning began with freshly squeezed tropical juice and locally grown, freshly roasted coffee. Local fishermen brought in the catch of the day, allowing us to choose prawns, calamari or red snapper straight from their boats. Fresh fruit and vegetables were plentiful, while evenings ended perfectly with an ice-cold Kilimanjaro beer after another wonderfully lazy day.
We spent hours bodyboarding in the surf, walking and running along miles of deserted beach, and occasionally hopping onto a boda boda (motorbike taxi) to explore nearby villages. For the more adventurous, boats can take you to the surrounding tidal sandbanks, where you’ll genuinely feel shipwrecked on your own private island. Snorkelling at nearby Maziwe Island, around 8 km offshore, was another highlight. The coral reef is remarkably untouched—and chances are you’ll have it entirely to yourself.
We spent an unforgettable week in this little slice of paradise and would recommend it to anyone who enjoys travelling off the beaten path.
If the drive from Dar es Salaam doesn’t appeal, Air Tanzania operates flights to Tanga, while several nearby private airstrips can also be reached by charter aircraft.
As for us, we decided to make the journey home a little more… interesting.
Rather than spending another day in the Alphard, we booked a boat to Zanzibar’s northern tip, planning to travel overland to Stone Town before catching the public ferry back to Dar es Salaam. It sounded wonderfully simple—and infinitely more scenic.
On the morning of departure, we were up before sunrise with chapatis and masala chai packed for breakfast. Our luggage was piled on the beach as we imagined a peaceful sunrise cruise across the Indian Ocean, arriving in Nungwi in time for a mid-morning cappuccino.
The crashing waves should probably have warned us otherwise.
Our “ferry” turned out to be a small snorkelling boat, which struggled repeatedly to land on the beach through the surf. After several failed attempts, we walked nearly a kilometre along the shoreline before conditions finally allowed us to board. Our luggage was thrown aboard between crashing waves and secured beneath the boat’s handful of life jackets. We squeezed in behind the bags, already soaked with seawater before we’d even left the shore.
As Ushongo disappeared into the distance, it dawned on us that we were crossing open ocean in a very small boat. Zanzibar remained invisible beyond the horizon while enormous swells lifted us high above the sea before plunging us back into the troughs below. Breakfast quickly became the last thing on our minds as wave after wave drenched us in salty spray.
Then, just when morale had reached rock bottom, nature delivered the most incredible reward.
A humpback whale surfaced nearby.
For a few magical moments, every fear disappeared as we watched this magnificent giant glide effortlessly through the ocean beside us.
Several soaking hours later, we finally arrived on the lively, Ibiza-esque beaches of Nungwi. Surrounded by stylish cafés, boutique hotels, sushi restaurants and tourists enjoying gelato in spotless beachwear, we couldn’t have looked more out of place. Salt-crusted, windswept and thoroughly exhausted, we wore every minute of the journey we’d just survived. At that point, we were simply delighted to be alive.
From Nungwi, the rest of the journey really was plain sailing. Looking back, travelling via Zanzibar is certainly an unforgettable way to reach Ushongo—but only if done safely. This is a serious open-ocean crossing with deep water, powerful currents and rapidly changing conditions. It should only ever be attempted in a properly equipped, seaworthy vessel with twin engines and an experienced captain.
Where to Stay
If you’re planning your own adventure to Ushongo Beach, Mawimbi Villa offers a wonderful beachfront base from which to experience this hidden corner of Tanzania.
